South of Paris – Yssingeaux market

Two years ago, my dearest friend Aurelie took us to the market in Yssingeaux. It’s a tiny commune in the Haute Loire region of France, though compared to St. Bonnet le Froid, it’s the size of Texas.

There is just something so special about the Yssingeaux market. 

The tiny streets are filled with producers, stands of fruit, meat and dairy line the perimeter of the picturesque town and spill into its center.

It was like unlike any market we frequent in Paris- there was a true country spirit about it.

We bought an amazing paté de campagne from a local producer that we still talk about to this day. The yogurt, the honey, the bread..they are their producer’s life work, and nothing comes close to their quality. It was at this market where we had that one-of-a-kind, super aged goat cheese.

We left Paris on Tuesday, ready to spend a whole week in Auvergne with possibly our most favourite people in the world: The Nuels.

Aurelie and Jean Pierre had a full schedule of events planned for us- all of which contained food one way or another. Our only request was for them to take us to the Yssingeaux market again.

Aurelie happily obliged.

enroute to Yssingeaux

enroute to Yssingeaux

Unlike other markets, the Yssingeaux market is only available on Thursdays.

Big reuseable shopping bags in hand, we took a stroll through the market that had captured our hearts two years ago.

Yssingeaux market

Yssingeaux market

Aurelie picking up some Reblochon for our tartiflette

Aurelie picking up some Reblochon for our tartiflette

Our favourite yogurt, made fresh from Mont Treslemont

Our favourite yogurt, made fresh from Mont Treslemont

Raw milk, sold by the litre if you bring your own bottle

Raw milk, sold by the litre if you bring your own bottle

Fresh pressed goat cheese

Fresh pressed goat cheese

Yssingeaux market

Yssingeaux market

Probably our favourite vendor at the market. He sells an amazing pate de campagne that his father-in-law makes on his farm

Probably our favourite vendor at the market. He sells an amazing pate de campagne that his father-in-law makes on his farm

Unbelievable loaf of pate, sold in slices by weight

Unbelievable loaf of pate, sold in slices by weight

We bought a pain de seigle (rye bread) from him. I just couldn't wait...

We bought a pain de seigle (rye bread) from him. I just couldn’t wait…

Market haul

Market haul

Though we had lunch plans immediately after, we couldn’t wait to break into our haul. When in France, we do as the French do- picnic.

Bruce and I picnic a lot, but this was probably our first car picnic. It was wonderful. We dug into our fresh goat cheese, tangy and creamy it simply fell apart on our lips. Pain de seigle, a flavouful, crusty bread full of character and a few slices of cured ham. Aurelie dug through her bag to find her mini retractable knife, which she used to portion the cheese.

petit picnic inside Aurelie's car

petit picnic inside Aurelie’s car

While we ate, we talked excited about what we were going to have for lunch, and later on for dinner.

The light rain that had been coming down steadily grew thicker and more dense as we sat inside the car. Soon enough, flurries formed and brushed up against the window, sending us into momentary shock.

It was the first time in a year that Bruce and I had seen snow.

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